14 - 24 October 2024 - UPPER MUSTANG (Nepal) - completed

I have been wanting to visit Upper Mustang again to trace the footsteps of the past Shangpa Rinpoche who had immensely and positively influenced many people in the remote villages in the Himalaya regions for many years. During this trip, I met a few disciples of the past Shangpa Rinpoche and had the opportunity to speak with them to learn more about him and his legacy.
Day 11 - 24 October 2024 - Installing Mother's tsa tsa into a chorten in Muktinath
Early this morning, we trekked up Muktinath, prayed and installed my late mother's tsa tsa into a newly built chorten. Everyone prayed sincerely and I could feel the poignancy in the atmosphere. Such is impermanence and transciency. Deepest gratitude to my loving mother Doltso (1928-26 March 2024).
After wiping away some tears, we headed down to the temple in Muktinath. This holy place is sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists. Many pilgrims will come here to bathe in the 108 water spouts or Chumig Gyatsa with taps in the shape of boars' heads, even in the winter to seek cleansing or blessings.
According to Tibetan Buddhism, Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) visited this holy place accompanied by 84 Siddhas. They each plunged a stick into the ground. Miraculously, from those 84 holes, 84 springs of water came out from the ground. This water is therefore believed to be blessed holy water, it tasts both sweet and cooling. Hindus consider that the holy water of Muktinath can wash away negative karma, the results of one's past negative actions.
The place has been repaired several times. The first Shangpa Rinpoche repaired the spouts in Chumig Gyatsa during his time. The wall with the spouts was renovated in 1990. With Tharpa Choeling Nunnery located so near, I have visited this place many times throughout my years.
We then headed back to the nunnery for a good breakfast and more rabne before going back to Pokhara, just in time to attend HH the 41st Sakya Trizin, Kyabgon Gongma Trichen Rinpoche's 80th birthday celebration.
Leaving Muktinath temple
Rabne
About a year old ZigPo 'Handsome Boy" adopted by our anis.
Clean and beautiful surroundings all around Tharpa Choeling Nunnery
Day 10 - 23 October 2024 - The day we left Chung Chung Village for Muktinath
Today we left Chung Chung Village. Everyone gathered at the community hall to offer us katags and to bid us farewell. I shared with them the following: "I came to Chung Chung village because of bumtsok in Ghar gompa. Lamas from this village invited me to stoppver here. That is why I cam. This place and the people are beautiful and friendly. Everyone served us so well. I feel like we are a family gathering together. I feel touched. Thanks for making us comfortable. Many of you have entrusted your children to me as sangha. They are doing well. You need to learn more dharma from khenpo and lama and also from the khenpo of Nyiphu gompa nearby, do more mani recitations, a few pairs of Nyungne, increase your accumulation of merits. Ama Sorig, the newly opened clinic, serves everyones so well. I thank Lama Yonten and Lama Samten and others who helped opened this clinic. Amchi (doctor) is very compassionate. With his humanitarian help, he relieves the sicknesses of the people here. If in my small way, I can be of help, I would like to help e.g. in the health sector in the future. I thank all of your and your gifts. Many thanks for showing your devotion to me. Thank you all."
En route we made a few stopovers at the invitation of the locals.
First we stopped at Lo Kunphen Herbal Museum & Herbarium, also the home of Amchi Gyatso. Located in Lo Mantang, it has a small winter school located in Pokhara. Lo Kunphen was founded by Gyatso and Tenzin Bista, brothers and amchi, practitioners of Tibetan medicine, following their family tradition. It has since produced cohorts of amchi with qualififcations recognized by by the Nepal government. Here, I gave to a local community of seniors phowa oral transmission and some guidance.
Then we headed to a Ngakpa monastery in Lo Manthang at their invitation to bless the three statues therein and I gave phowa oral transmission and teaching to the locals. On my way out, there was a little girl who happened to have her birthday that very day. So I wished her happy birthday.
After Ngakpa Monastery, we headed for one of my lama's (Lama Karma Gelek) sister's home to do house blessing. We were warmly welcomed by the family.
In Lama Karma Gelek's sister's home, I had a brief encounter with an old lady who has met the previous Shangpa Rinpoche. Her name is Pasang Lhamo and she is 80 years old when I met her on 23 October 2024. She was about 15 or 16 years old when she met the previous Shangpa Rinpoche who was at that time building the Ghar gompa. She shared that due to her young age and small in physical aspect at that time, she was not very helpful at the construction site. When she met the previous Shangpa Rinpoche, he was quite old already. She said he had a scar on one side of his face. She had tears welling in her eyes during our meeting. We took a few photos together and I wished her well.
We were invited by Prince Jigme Dhrubho Palbar Bista, son of King Jigme Sitti Palbar Bista and his Princess for a sumptuous lunch at his Royal Mustang Resort. We were very warmly welcomed by the royal couple and their staff in their beautiful resort. It was quite extraordinary, like an oasis out of the landscape of Mustang.
After lunch, we visited Jampa Monastery (Thubchen gompa) aka called Maitreya Temple. Built in the 15th century AD, it contains the world's largest collection of mandalas painted on its walls. The April 2015 earthquake severely damaged these paintings and 500-year-old frescos of the floors.
Next we headed to our Samar gompa aka Orgyen Drub Gyue Ling. Constructed in 2008-2012, this gompa has since been handed over and managed by the good people of Samar.
Finally, we reached our Tharpa Choeling Nunnery in Muktinath to have a delicious dinner of momo and soup cooked by our anis and to rest for the night. It was a long and fulfilling day.
Day 9 - 22 October 2024 - Phurab Choga Smoke Puja and Amitayus longevity initiation at Chung Chung Village
Before the start of the program, I had the opportunity to rescue another two sheep. Both are males. I was told that a baby sheep was born on the night we arrived in Chung Chung Village. It was not the season for sheep births and so the villagers think it was an auspicious sign of my return to the village. When they heard that I wish to rescue a sheep in addition to the yak, immediately they offered me the baby sheep. So I bought another sheep which is about one year old and I got to rescue two sheep that morning. Both are males. I named the baby YangBum and the one year old YangChar. YangBum means Millions of Fortune while YangChar means Arising Fortune. Char means 'to arise'. I think it was a great start to the day for both sheep and for everyone who rejoiced in this happy occasion. I hope all three animals - KyiYak, YangBum and YangChar grow up well and healthy and have to the opportunity to be reborn in good realms with the ability to learn the Buddha Dharma. Then we headed to the local community hall where we did Phurab Choga Smoke Puja and I gave Amitayus longevity initiation and teaching. The Sang or Smoke puja aids practitioners as a purification practice. I learnt there were two old grandmothers who walked for hours from another village to attend this program. Such was their great devotion and determination. It is very rare for me to make this trip and I think word got around of my visit. The entire hall was packed which pleased me to know that many people are keen to learn the Buddha Dharma.
Khenpo Tashi Woser and his family in Chung Chung Village invited us for a warm dinner of delicious of momo at their lovely home. Everyone had a lovely time and we took photos together. Before retiring to our respective home stay, we stars-gazed only for a short while since it was chilling outdoors in the night of the peaceful village. With minimal light pollution, we could see many stars and even managed to take photos of the Milky Way.
Day 8 - 21 October 2024 - Free & Easy day at Chung Chung Village
This was the only program free day where we all got to rest and immerse in Chung Chung Village. In the morning, I visited the house which the past Shangpa Rinpoche had live in whenever he came to Chung Chung village. Whenever the previous Shangpa Rinpoche visited Chung Chung village, he would stay in the late Chodrak Gyaltso’s home. He was a ngakpa, his wife was from an important family in Mustang, his father was Koyok Drupchen, a tulku from Tibet. Some of his descendants still live in Chung Chung village. Chodrak Gyaltso and his wife only had one child who did not survive. After Chodrak Gyaltso had passed away, his wife sold everything including the property and went to Rumtek to volunteer her services to the Karmapa. The property has since changed hands but much remained the same.
The house where the past Shangpa Rinpoche used to stay in whenever he visited Chung Chung Village
Next I visited and blessed the recently opened clinic named AMA SORIG. I learnt it was officially opened in July 2024. With sponsors from Malaysia and the good initiatives of Lama Yonten and Lama Samten, they managed to open and run this clinic to service the villagers in Chung Chung Village. They found a good and compassionate Amchi (doctor) named Ngawang who lives in Muktinath. Amchi Ngawang is stationed in this clinic periodically. About 6-7 people, including both lamas, manage the clinic. AMA Sorig Clinic charges half the rate to seniors from 60 years old and above. For those who cannot afford any medical fees, the clinic provides free medical assistance. I am very happy with what my lama have achieved and I hope they continue to be of good services to many people both spiritually and humanitarianly.

Then we visited a dhrong or pasteur lands of yak herders. I decided to rescue a yak. The yak herders wanted to offer me a yak instead but I insisted on buying one from them to rescue it. They rounded some yaks into an enclosure and eventually a mother Yak and a baby Yak were trapped in the enclosure. As I approached the baby yak, the mother yak watched carefully at my every movement. I said my prayers and held back my tears momentarily. To me, it was a very real and moving moment. I named him Kyi-Yak which means Happy Yak. (video above)
After rescuing Kyi-Yak, we had lunch in the dhrong before heading to the border for a short while to experience the way of life there. From Nepal side, there were vast empty lands. From China side, we could see many buildings. There, people sell similar products such as biscuits, candies, cup noodles, etc. The way to shop is to look around and keep comparing prices.
That afternoon, we visited Lowo Nyiphug Namdrol Norbuling Monastery which is estimated to be from the 15th century. Part of the monastery is built into the cave and so it is also known as Sun Cave Monastery. There I gave a short talk to the local community.
Finally we visited the Shija Jhong Cave in Chhoser. Also known as Sky Caves, it has five storeys carved from the cliff. People in Chhoser and adjacent villages used to live in there for safety when they were under threat. Using steep stairs to manuever between the rooms and levels, the people have to crouch very low to prevent knocking their heads on the low ceilings. The cave has a natural skylight that provides natural light and ventilation inside. We took several photos before returning to Chung Chung Village to have dinner and rest for the evening, ready for the next day's program.
Day 7 - 20 October 2024 - Marang Village, Thingar Village, Phuwa Village, Chung Chung Village
On this lovely morning after breakfast, I visited Marang Village to see the treasures and the chorten of the past Shangpa Rinpoche. A snow flurry descended as our group arrived. We were warmly welcomed by the people of Marang. They led me to the community house and offered us warm tea and dresil (Tibetan sweet rice). After prayers, I was shown a letter in which mentioned the village is to observe Shangpa Rinpoche's anniversary every year. It was a handwritten copy dated 1992, of the the original agreement letter which indicated the observance of Shangpa Rinpoche's anniverary annually for as long as the Marang Village exists. The original letter, written by the village head, should be inked shortly after the past Shangpa Rinpoche had passed away. Then they showed me a pair of gyalings in a wooden chest. They were gifted to the good people of Marang village by previous Shangpa Rinpoche. I have not played gyaling for a long time, nonetheless, I played it briefly before handing it over to my lamas who eagerly tried playing it. Finally, they put a locked metal chest infront of me. In it were items originally contained in a chorten that held the relics and tsa tsa of the past Shangpa Rinpoche. The chorten was damaged by an earthquake and so the locals demolished it, removed all its contents, rebuilt a new chorten and put back most of the items, except a few that they retained as mementos. These include worn down pecha (traditional loose leaf book), some round things that appear to be coins or currencies, etc. I could not decipher the title of the pecha as it is in a dilapidated state. Before leaving the village, I went to the rebuilt chorten, prayed, blessed and circumabulated it. I was happy to be able to have this opportunity to sight and touch the treasures and the chorten of the past Shangpa Rinpoche.
Passing through Lo-Manthang, the villagers welcomed us all in a pompous manner. I think the tourists there had a good time soaking uo the culture that morning. Then we headed for Thingar Village. It is the home of one of my lamas named Sherab Dorje. Again we had a grand welcome ceremony with tea and rice offerings. I gave Mani oral transmission to all who were present. We were invited by Lama Sherab Dorje's father to their home for tea and house blessing. before visiting an old monastery nearby.
Then I headed to Phuwa Village to inaugurate a big Mani Prayer Wheel. It was a restoration of the Prayer Wheel in Phuwa Village that was built by the past Shangpa Rinpoche. This was done by the members of the Mustang Restoration Project that included Khenpo and Lama who came hail from Mustang. When we arrived at the village, we were warmly welcomed by a large group of welcome party in their full regalia. After the inauguration of the Big Prayer Wheel, I gave Mani oral transmission and dharma talk to all who gathered at the Phuwa community hall.
Along the way to Chung Chung Village, I stopped at Kimbaling for house blessing at the request of a home owner.
Eventually we arrived at Chung Chung Village to rest for the night. All of us were divided into different homes of the villagers. We were very much well-taken care of by the local community. It was a wonderful home-stay experience.
Day 6 - 19 October 2024 - Bumtsok in Ghar Gompa day 3/3
This 3rd and final day of bumtsok was auspiciously concluded in Ghar gompa. I shared the following:
This special day is a combination of Jangchub Choeling Monastery’s Khenpo and Lama; Tharpa Choeling Nunnery’s Ani, Mustang region’s sangha, along with all the ngakpa, all of whom united at this holy place of Guru Rinpoche to practice bumtsok according to Konchog Chidu, which was also the previous Shangpa Rinpoche’s personal practice.
This is a very fortunate and happy moment for me. I can just imagine in the past when Shangpa Rinpoche went from place to place to conduct all these bumtsok puja, there were also such assemblies to support and fulfil his wishes of bumtsok. It brings the same feeling and atmosphere of those times, even though the people may be different like the next generation of Shangpa Rinpoche’s disciples. Nevertheless, we follow the same way as what the past Shangpa Rinpoche had done. So this is a very precious moment for me. This is my first bumtsok. It is filled with blessings and bliss. I wish to thank all our sangha and Mustang regions ngakpas who have immense faith and devotion to previous Shangpa Rinpoche, and are now rendering the same devotion to me as the second Shangpa Rinpoche. Everything is happening interdependently. Without you, I cannot do this bumtsok. I wish to do bumtsok and you all came to support. Very auspiciously and meaningfully it happened. While we are doing this bumtsok, I am thiking of the next anniversary of Shangpa Rinpoche. I should observe it in Kutsab Ternga because it was also a place for the past Shangpa Rinpoche where he had stayed and renovated. Right now, I am also rebuilding it. If every condition is met, then I wish to organize one bumtsok in Kutsab Ternga. I earnestly request all of you to go to Kutsab Ternga to observe Shangpa Rinpoche's anniverary and at the same time, we try to fulfil bumtsok. Thank you for coming and joining these three days. Beginning, middle and ending are all ausipcious. This is a great fulfillment of Shangpa Rinpoche's wishes and I am sure he will bless you all. Many of you are his discisples and he will give all his blessings. All the assembly of the Triple Gems and Triple Roots will also bless you with good health, long life, success and spiritual progress in your practices. Thank you. On this final day of bumtsok, Khenpo Tashi Woser gave a moving speech. Please refer to https://www.instagram.com/reel/DBUENbhNDMR/?igsh=MWVkN2l0bDF2OHA5NA==
Group photo
Photo with lama
Photo with ani
Photo with ngakpa
Day 5 - 18 October 2024 - Bumtsok in Ghar Gompa day 2/3
In the morning during breakfast, one elderly man named Nyima visited me at Lumbini Guest House & Restaurant in Tsarang village. He is 79 years old and lives in Tsarang village. He told me he saw the past Shangpa Rinpoche and wanted to meet me. He kindly offered me hot fresh milk. He also shared with me a famous true story that everyone in Mustang has heard of.
There was an infamous gangster named Ghana Yeshe from Tibet who wanted to kill Tasang Pempa. Wanting to preserve his life, Tasang Pema sought help from the past Shangpa Rinpoche. The past Shangpa Rinpoche told Ghana Yeshe to please not kill Tasang Pempa. Ghana Yeshe agreed to Rinpoche not to kill Tasang Pempa, but wanted to bring him to his residence to punish him instead. Though Rinpoche was disappointed by the reply, he felt assured that Tasang Pempa's life was safe. However, Ghana Yeshe broke his promise to Shangpa Rinpoche. He caught Tasang Pempa and intended to kill him. Tasang Pempa lied that he needed to use the toilet, but really he wanted to find a way to escape. He escaped a horse and rode down the mountain. It was a very dangerous route even on a horse. Tasang Pempa was at crossroads in his mind. He thought if he got caught by Ghana Yeshe, he would die. If he continued this difficult route in the mountains, he would die too. Finally, he chose to carry on his journey in the mountains thinking if he fell from the mountain cliff, then he would die on his own accord and not in the hands of Ghana Yeshe. Tasang Pempa got off the horse and walked instead. The horse cried as it wanted to help Tasang Pempa. The horse skillfully carried Tasang Pempa to a safe place. Tasang Pempa believed that was due to Shangpa Rinpoche’s blessings.
The descendants of Tasang Pempa remembered this true story and many years ago, offered katag to me when I was much younger.
After breakfast, I headed for Ghar gompa. I led the second day of tsokbum or 100,000 accumulations of the tsok offering. At the end of the auspicious completion, I shared with everyone my thoughts.
“Everyone, thank you for joining the puja. Today is the second day. Tomorrow is the third and final day. The prayer is going well. I recall the unique three groups of Lama, Ani and Ngakpa that were present together with the previous Shangpa Rinpoche whenever he led tsokbum. Here, we also have the same special three groups.
Yesterday on the 68th anniversary of the previous Shangpa Rinpoche, we started the tsokbum. This atmosphere in this hall is a reminder of those good times when Shangpa Rinpoche was present and he was surrounded by monks and nuns and lay devotees doing Guru Rinpoche’s tsokbum, not only at one location but in many places.
I feel it is a similar atmosphere right here and it may not be that different from back then. Perhaps different tsok materials, mainly tsampa tsok back then. Everyone is very fortunate doing this in such a holy place.
I thank everyone who came from far away to participate. So please everyone, come again tomorrow to complete this bum tsok.”
Here in Ghar gompa, there are prayer wheels built by the past Shangpa Rinpoche. He had lived in Ghar gompa for about five years. The small kitchen in the old compound used to be his room. In the past, the prayer wheels were located inside the premises. Rinpoche had advised the locals that prayer wheels are for everyone to use, and so they should be placed outside to allow as many people to pray and spin the wheels as possible. Following his instructions, the locals relocated the prayers outside the premises. Metals were hard to come by in those times. The metal parts of the prayer wheels originated from weapons such as guns that were donated by hunters. The hunters gave up hunting after meeting the past Shangpa Rinpoche and they offered their weapons to make the prayer wheels. They were surrendered at Lo Manthang royal palace to allow the blacksmiths there to work on them to make the prayer wheels. This story was shared by a 81 year-old ngakpa named Pema Rigdzin who is the disciple of the past Shangpa Rinpoche. He shared with me many interesting stories of Rinpoche.
I will write more about the stories of the past Shangpa Rinpoche. Please wait......
Day 4 - 17 October 2024 - Bumtsok in Ghar Gompa day 1/3
This morning after a good breakfast of tsampa porridge and po cha (butter tea) at Lumbini Guest House & Restaurant at Tsarang Village, I headed for Ghar gompa above Marang Village. On this auspicious full moon day, I led the first day of 100,000 tsok offerings. My mother passed away more than 6 months ago, and so we concluded the day with the recitation of Samantabhadra's King of Aspiration Prayers. There were 60 lama and ani along with many ngakpa , volunteers and locals joining this event. Over the next two days, I continued to lead the puja to complete 100,000 recitations of the tsok prayers composed by the 15th Karmapa. This prayer is to comermorate the first Shangpa Rinpoche, who in his life, wherever he went, he did 100,000 tsok offerings. Today, on the annoversary of the past Shangpa Rinpoche, I joined the 100,000 tsok offerings at Ghar gompa for the very first time. Seeing his portrait on the shrine, I imagine he must be doing similar things as what we are doing right now. Perhaps with simpler tsok offerings like tsampa torma compared to now. Yet, he made the effort to make 100,000 tsok, at the end of which he gave them all to the beggars and anyone who needed food. I was told from several past Shangpa Rinpoche’s disciples that he did this for maybe around 15 days or so, depending on the number of participants. By joining these prayers over three days, it is my way of devotion and thanks giving to Guru Rinpoche, yidams and protectors and of course the past Shangpa Rinpoche.
During lunch break, I briefly met a 85 years old lady named Pema Choden. I was told the past Shangpa Rinpoche used to live with her family. She was happy to be able to meet me at Ghar gompa. Photos below.
85 years old Pema Choden and her family
Day 3 - 16 October 2024 Chod empowerment & oral transmission at Ghar gompa
Ghar gompa or Lo-Gekar is considered to be the oldest temple dating back in the 8th century in Upper Mustang. Located at an altitude of approximately 3930 meters on the south bank of the Marang River, a tributary to the Kali Gandaki, in Upper Mustang. It sits at the head of the valley that houses the villages of Marang and Tsarang. It is owned and managed by Marang Village. Ghar gompa is recorded in the Pema Katang, a text containing the biography of Padmasambhava. This text was discovered by a terton or treasure revealer named Orgyen Lingpa Padmasambhava was invited to tame demons and local deities creating havoc to the villagers. It was said that there was a demoness who stopped the construction of the monastery until Padmasambhava managed to subdue her. In Ghar gompa, there is a statue of Padmasambhava flanked by his two consorts. Padmasambhava is sitting on what is supposedly the heart of the demoness (covered in cloaks, fabrics and katags so you won't be able to see it). It is also said that her innards of intestines were strewn across the lands which you now see covered by Mani wheels and mantra. Along the main wall the panels depict Padmasambhava and his 25 disciples, while the side walls are dedicated to the 108 peaceful and wrathful deities of the intermediate stage (bardo). At a bottom corner of the old main shrine is supposedly a self-arising Tara. (see photo below) After self-preparing chod in the old main shrine, I gave the empowerment and oral transmission to all participants on the ground of Ghar gompa. I told the sangha, ngakpa and the local community that I was happy to meet them all. Many years back I had met them. Now I am back here again since all the ngakpa observe the previous Shangpa Rinpoche's anniverary without fail. I heard of this annual activity last year. So this year, I wish to join this tsok offering at Ghar gompa. Some of them are the past Shangpa Rinpoche's disciples and many of them are the descendants of Shangpa Rinpoche's disciples. I am supposed to be the incarnation of Shangpa RInpoche as recognized by the HH the 16th Gyalwa Karmapa. So I have to fulfill the legacy of Shangpa Rinpoche. It was very good to meet them all for this chod initiation. Chod is a very important practice. It is to cut off ego, the very core teachings of Machig Labrdon. She was a Tibetan lady who practiced Prajnaparamita and realized emptiness and made this practice of chod together with Dampa Sangye's methods. This is a very profound practice. Previous Shangpa Rinpoche also taught this ot the people of this region. Since the locals continue to practice this, and so I need to give initiation to the next generation. Chod is one tradition itself in Buddhism. Then subsequently, every tradition of Vajrayana adapted this practice. Amongst all these lineages, chod in Karma Kagyu started from the third Karmapa Ranjung Dorje.
Day 2 - 15 October 2024 Jomsom to Tsarang Village
The next morning, after a hearty breakfast made by Ani from Tharpa Choeling Nunnery nearby, we left Jomsom for Tsarang Village where I stayed for five nights. From there, daily we went to Ghar gompa located just above Marang Village. This was the start of my Upper Mustang journey. I stayed at a lovely guest house named Lumbini Guest House & Restaurant, which is still undergoing construction. Will be adding photos later. Wait ah......
Day 1 - 14 October 2024 Pokhara to Kutsab Ternga, Jomsom
From Jangchub Choeling Monastery, Pokhara, we drove to Kutsab Ternga gompa in Jomsom. I wanted to see the progress of the gompa. We rested at the gompa for the night.